20/11/2002 - Tamsin Austin

Just how much can be gleaned about the culture and music of a country one hundred times the size of Scotland in just ten days...? My research trip to Brasil was a activity packed whistle stop trip from São Paulo to Recife to Baracena in Pará and finally to Rio. On route we met, played with, danced with and talked to a great many musicians, and absorbed a quite breath-taking miasma of sounds. From the raw grate of the rabeca fiddle and the plaintive singing of Mestre Salustiano in the dust of a Forró in Olinda to the hip-swaying, honeyed vocals of a young samba singer in a smoky Rio bar. Open-fire rapping and beat boxing of Z'África Brasil and the delicious melancholy grooves of Orquestra Popular de Câmara in São Paulo, the tightest funkiest jangle of lamabada rhythms in the Pará jungle through to stabbing horns and improvised Maracatu singing in Recife...not to mention the persistant city soundtrack of MPB on the radio... it was all there, laying out the musical map of a country rich in not only its own indigenous music but the musics of its many settlers. Music which while retaining a sense of its origin has in many areas developed into a highly contemporary sound.

Music as a common language the world over is never more apparent than when travelling in a country where you don't speak the language. Where music is played for the same reasons as it is everywhere in the world, for dancing, for celebration, for entertainment, the roots are the same. The Forró in Olinda for example, a dance for the community with music played by members of the community, a social event along exactly the same lines as a Scottish ceilidh, a Cajun dance or an Argentinian Milonga.

Coming from Scotland where little is generally known about Brasilian music, bar Astrud Gilberto and DJ Marky and where avid fans must stay up until all hours of the night to hear Radio 1's Gilles Peterson play Azymuth or Gilberto Gil or tune in to the occasional 'world music' show on Radio 3, it was a revelation to find so much other music out there and fantastic to think that the MPBBPM project was going to open our eyes and ears and deepen our understanding of Brasilian music in Scotland and ultimately influence new music to be created by the musicians from both countries.

 

TAMSIN AUSTIN
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